Curtain length affects how a room looks and how well the window is insulated. Panels that puddle on the floor in humid summer months may sit fine in dry winter air — thermal expansion and contraction in fabric is real, especially in cotton and linen. This article covers how to measure correctly and adjust hem length, whether the panels are too long, have been cut, or have shrunk after washing.
Standard Curtain Length Styles in Canada
Before hemming, it helps to know the intended drop. Canadian homes follow the same general conventions as other North American markets:
- Sill length: Bottom of panel sits at or just above the window sill. Common in kitchens and bathrooms where floor-length panels collect moisture.
- Below-sill (apron length): Panels extend 10–15 cm below the sill. A common choice for casement windows.
- Floor length: Bottom sits 1–2 cm above the floor. The most neutral option for living rooms and bedrooms.
- Puddle length: Intentional 5–15 cm of extra fabric resting on the floor. Largely decorative; harder to maintain and not suited to high-traffic rooms.
Tools and Materials
- Measuring tape
- Fabric chalk or a water-soluble marking pen
- Pins (glass-head pins for heavier fabrics)
- Iron and ironing board
- Thread matching the curtain fabric
- Hand sewing needle or sewing machine
- Optional: Fusible hem tape (for no-sew alternative)
How to Measure the Correct Drop
- Hang the curtain panel on the rod at the correct header position (with hooks or rings in place).
- Measure from the bottom of the ring or hook eyelet down to the desired finishing point (floor, sill, or apron).
- Subtract the hem allowance — typically 8–12 cm for a double-fold hem, or follow the existing hem depth on the panel.
- Mark the new cut line with fabric chalk across the full width of the panel. Use a straight edge or a long ruler to keep the line level.
- Repeat for each panel individually; slight variations in how panels hang mean measuring each panel separately gives more consistent results.
Tip for paired panels: After marking and before cutting, hang both panels side by side with the chalk lines visible. Check that the marks align when viewed from the front of the window — minor adjustments are easier to make before cutting than after.
Sewing a New Hem
Double-Fold Hand or Machine Hem
This is the most durable method and produces a clean finish on both sides of the fabric.
- Trim the panel to the marked cut line, adding your hem allowance (e.g. cut 10 cm below the finished hem line for a 5 cm double fold).
- Press the raw edge under by 5 cm with an iron.
- Fold again by another 5 cm and press firmly — this encloses the raw edge.
- Pin the fold in place at 10–15 cm intervals.
- Sew close to the inner folded edge, either by machine (straight stitch, 2.5–3 mm length) or by hand using a blind hem stitch that catches only a few threads of the face fabric at a time.
- Remove pins, press the finished hem from the reverse side.
No-Sew Fusible Hem Tape
Fusible hem tape (sold at fabric stores in Canada under brands such as Dritz or Clover) uses heat-activated adhesive to bond the fold without stitching. It is suitable for lightweight to medium-weight fabrics and is a practical solution when sewing is not an option.
- Fold the fabric as described above and press to create a crease.
- Open the fold and insert a strip of fusible tape inside the fold, along the inner edge.
- Fold back and pin in place.
- Press firmly with a damp pressing cloth for 8–10 seconds per section, following the tape manufacturer's temperature recommendation.
- Allow to cool completely before handling. The bond strengthens as it cools.
Fusible hems are not as durable as sewn hems for heavy fabrics. They can separate after repeated washing if too-high a temperature is used in the machine. Check the tape packaging for washing instructions before use.
Handling Shrinkage After Washing
If panels have shortened after their first wash, the options are to let down the existing hem (if there is enough hem allowance), add a fabric extension, or rehang at a shorter finished drop. Letting down the existing hem is straightforward:
- Remove stitching or fusible tape from the existing hem.
- Press the fold flat to remove the crease.
- Re-measure from the hanging position to determine the new finished length.
- Fold and stitch the new hem as described above.
If the existing hem allowance is insufficient after shrinkage, fabric can be let down entirely and the panel re-hemmed at a higher point, accepting a shorter drop. Alternatively, a contrasting or matching border strip can be attached to the bottom of each panel — this is a design choice as much as a repair.
Heading Tape and Weight Adjustments
Curtain heading tape — the stiffened band at the top used to create pleats — sometimes needs replacement if it has become misshapen or if the curtain style is being changed. Pencil pleat tape is the most commonly stocked heading type at Canadian fabric retailers. Eyelet panels do not use heading tape but may need the eyelet row repositioned if the panel is shortened significantly at the top.
Weighted hem tape (a chain or chain-and-lead strip sewn into the hem) is used in heavier curtains to improve hang and reduce billowing near drafts. This can be added when re-hemming and is available by the metre at most fabric suppliers.
Related: How to Wash Fabric Curtains · Restoring Sun-Faded Curtains